Friday, July 24, 2009

10 more days of freedom!

I am staring at a mountain of goods.

Salami. Pepperoni. Jalapenos. Italian spices.

Somehow, all this nonsense has to fit into three suitcases.

Ziploc containers, markers, books, headphones.

I don't think I love packing as much as I used to-

But what I definitely WILL love is to open these bags in my apartment in Khartoum, delighting in the reality that I can treat myself to Smoked salmon or Parmesan a few times throughout the year.

Tuesday, July 14, 2009

NYC



Summer, sweet summer

I have taken the summer off from the blog, as you most certainly have realized.
There isn't the same kind of material in Atchison, Kansas. And it has been a little bizarre to walk down the street and not sneakily snap pictures of every random little thing. But these things here aren't as crazy different as the everyday events in Khartoum.
They are, however, equally amazing. I'm just enjoying the break from underhanded photography.

Below you will find a few pictures from my brother's wedding.

Sunday, May 24, 2009

What packing looks like

We're basically packing up our entire apartment, and then taking two bags each with us. The dust here in the coming months will be so bad that we don't want to leave anything out and unprotected.
So, we wash our clothes, tuck everything away in drawers, and cover our furniture with sheets. We also arrange for a cleaner to come and dust in the few days before we arrive.

What a bizarre life we live- that we haul spices and tampons halfway across the world, only to pack up our lives, and do it all over again the next year!

In 24 hours, we will be waiting impatiently at the airport. Unbelievable! We haven't been in a Western country since July. The most developed country we've been in? Jordan. Well, and Israel.
For 10 months, I have written and rewritten lists of things to buy in these few quick summer months. Feel free to invite yourself along to any joyful trip to any store. Or restaurant. Or bar. I can't wait to enjoy all these things!

Friday, May 22, 2009

Ms. Sudan

I really, really love this sash I found for myself.
A friend had gotten it for free, didn't see the potential, and was giving it away. But all it took was one safety pin to turn me into 'Ms. Sudan'.
She's made appearances at two parties now, and is kind of turning into a crowd favorite.

Thursday, May 21, 2009

precious ones

As amazingly cute as the kids were in the pool, I don't want to post the pictures of kids in all the crazy bathing suits. Seems a bit disrespectful. I will, however, allow you to see these precious 5th grade best friends, teeny tiny and all wrapped up. (One is a real, live princess!)
(Did I mention that the school year is over now? And that I'm about to go to a party wearing the really amazing Sudan sash that I got my hands on from a moving sale? And that I only have two work days before I am off to the land of sidewalks and salsa?)

Wednesday, May 20, 2009

En route to home

I snapped a few pictures out the window today, on the drive home from school.

This is the view as we sit to make that left turn just on the other side of the school's wall.
Here are the tea/coffee ladies on the side of the road.And- my favorite part of the drive...well, and honestly, my favorite part about giving directions to our house- the Welcome to Islam Organization! That's right- that's when you know to turn onto our street! We have yet to stop and ask just what the organization does. But the stories we make up are most definitely better than the truth, dontcha think?
And that's the drive. Sort-of. You can't hear the horns. Or Emily's string of curses as people drive like idiots. But you can imagine.

I guess I've got a few more in me

Today the middle school faculty and students spent the day at the CNPC compound. CNPC is a Chinese oil company, and we teach many of their students. We all have our political opinions, but the reality for our school is that we educate their adorable children, and they share a small tidbit of their wealth with the school.They invited the entire middle school to their compound to enjoy their beautiful pool for the day, and we finished it with an elaborate full-on Chinese buffet. All on their dime. Not a bad way to end the year! (Politics still aside.)
All year long, I have been amazed by the diversity of our student body. This was reinforced today when we got to the pool. We had girls in bikinis, tankinis... all the way to full length (to the the ankles and wrists) bodysuits. Some even had a matching swim cap! It was amazing to see the girls come out in all kinds of different swimming costumes- and everyone- everyone- was respectful and fine with it! Very cool to see. Some of the girls that usually cover their hair let their hair down, while others were careful to keep their caps on. Overall, it was just amazing to see them all (and in the end they ALL did) get in the water and splash around, having a good time.

Several of them are used to swimming at only boys' or only girls' pools, so it was also really great to see them all swimming and playing games together. (Do their parents understand they all swam together? That I can't confirm.) But it was really refreshing and amazing to see them all share one clear goal- dunking the teacher! Ha!

We will spend a half-day tomorrow hanging out with the kids, and then SHAZAAM! It's over!
Wow.

Tuesday, May 19, 2009

Who cares

about blogging with less than a week left? I have packing to do, people!

(large smile here)

Saturday, May 16, 2009

One week

Things are a bit crazy here... We have 4.5 days of school left, and we all leave town in 9 days! This makes for insane times, as we are marking and finishing up the year at the same time as we're running around to goodbye parties and doing last-minute shopping.

Goodbye parties here are often enjoyable because people sell or give away things that they can't take with them. We scored big last night- Tums, picture frames and bandaids! All to one end- more space in the suitcases in August!

Yesterday we ventured out to the 'Tourist Souk' in downtown Khartoum. These are all really shoddy tourist shops with very few things made in Sudan. Most are your classic East African wood carvings- cool, but not Sudanese. And a joyful experience, to say the least!

"High Tea"


Several of the teachers were invited to 'high tea' at the home of a family whose children go to KAS. I teach Hannani, whose in above photo and grade 5. They are from Malaysia and the father works for Petronas, the Malaysian oil company. What a fun adventure to the Petronas compound on the Nile! Their 'hi tea' was really just a Malaysian feast in the middle of the afternoon. Delicious!
She is the student that I have been threatening to adopt since August. So little and funny and awesome. I know she looks sweet in the picture (and she is) but that doesn't show the little one's fabulous sense of humor. And its hard to hear the really great farm animal noises that she's capable of making! This family has done an excellent job of convincing me that Malaysia could be a great next stop on the grand tour of International schools....

Tuesday, May 12, 2009

The Big Time!

Emily's play was reviewed on page 2 of the Khartoum Monitor!
A positive review- with photo!

Monday, May 11, 2009

Haboobs

I have yet to get any photos that really capture the essence of a haboob- the cloud of sand that rolls in, bending trees sideways and putting sand EVERYWHERE. We've had a rough few days- they come in at night, blowing sand everywhere... and have continued, to a lesser extent, through the day- making it just uncomfortably hazy and dusty. They give me a headache, I can't wear my contacts, and generally create a feeling of gloom. Its like a rainy day, without the refreshing, often-welcomed pitterpatter of raindrops on the roof.
While I don't have any photos of the haboobs themselves, I do have one of the aftermath. This is the bottom of the door in our kitchen, leading to a small balcony. Our maid came less than a week ago. This is the damage after just 5 short days (and two haboobs).
There are paw prints and footprints all through this house, as everything is covered in a layer of sand!

cement-pouring time

We finally did it! I finally coordinated cement and frames from the maintenance department, and we transferred our designs from where they were all laid out on cardboard to the wet cement. Success! Emily and a few other colleagues helped the kids frantically place the stones, with the reward being that they then got to make their own. In the end, 12 kids and four adults produced 14 stepping stones. Some are really, really cool. Others aren't. They weren't the craftiest bunch. But I think they all enjoyed the process.

Saturday, May 9, 2009

Em's play

Tonight was the final night of Em's play. Amazing! I'm always dazzled by the work that she does with kids- helping them create powerful, meaningful stories out of their own life experiences. This year was no different. The kids told the story of "Beyond the Mirror's Mirage", looking at what it means to be a foreigner in Sudan, or elsewhere- all through the story of a wedding! Ahhhhh romance!
Awesome to see it finally come together, as the high school kids were responsible for designing, painting, acting and lighting and all of it. And it somehow falls together to become a quality production! Amazing!
See a few select photos below...

National Museum at its best

So I found this picture online- taken at the National Museum. I love it. The skies weren't blue when we were there- but rather the dusty brown "looks like it should rain" cloud that seems to have enveloped this city for the month of May.

Friday, May 8, 2009

Sudan National Museum











We asked a colleague to take us to the National Museum. She has a PhD in African Studies and has lived here in Khartoum for 20 years- and knows all there is to know about the archaeological work done here. The perfect guide!
The museum could be impressive. It's a large building with potentially beautiful grounds, located right on the Nile.

To start with, we were shocked that it only costs 1 SDG to get in- although we gave her 10 SDG for the 6 of us, and didn't get change. She then claimed it was 1.50. Uh... That math still doesn't add up, ma'am. Not worth the battle. Less than 5 dollars for all six of us to spend the morning at the museum? Yup. YOU keep the change.
It soon became very clear that they needed that money more than we did! (Did I mention this is the largest museum in the country?)They have brought several temples piece by piece from Northern Sudan. Very impressive, as she could explain the difference in carving between the earlier Egyptian dynasties and then the later 'Sudanese'. The most exciting was a temple originally built by Queen Hatsepshut- including one of the few remaining drawings of her! (See photo- she's to my right- topless, as most queens are?).
Sadly, the museum lacks any serious financial support. Any fancy signage has been donated by the archaological society here in Sudan. But their donations and efforts are heavily restricted and limited.
Christine, our 'guide' also pointed out the various ways that the carvings and temples and statues and paintings are being affected by fungus and salt, with nothing being done to stop it. Pretty sad to see, as there are some pretty amazing things worth preserving in this little 'national' museum!

Below you can see the 'main hall'. There are 36 air conditioners rimming the ceiling. Zero of them work. Christine, in all of her visits, has never seen them on. I suppose hot, dry air isn't bad for preservation. But that seems to be the only measures they take.They also have a hall of Christian mosaics from 1000- 1300s, when Sudan was Christian. Surprisingly beautiful. Interestingly, these all depicted Jesus as white-skinned while bishops and disciples and others are dark-skinned. In Ethiopia- not so far away- Jesus was always painted as having dark skin. Hmmm....

We all agreed that it was a great tour to take so close to our departure. We're ending on a high note, appreciative of the historical and cultural importance of this place and the people. Just what we will need to remember this summer, as we struggle to pack to return!

Tuesday, May 5, 2009

Top 10 or Bottom 10?

CNN today reported on the "Ten Worst Places to be a Blogger". Sudan didn't make the cut!
Now, I know they aren't talking about 'blogging' in the context of my silly little postings, but rather something approximating real reporting- however, I can't help but be encouraged. If we aren't one of the 10 worst? Why- we must be pretty close to the TOP of the list, right?!

Read the article HERE.

Some of you may notice that I am very conscientious of what I post here, in part because I don't know where exactly on the above-mentioned list Sudan falls.
Want to talk politics? See you this summer!

Sunday, May 3, 2009

Water Fight!

The final activities of last week's Spirit Week-
a tug-0-war and water fight!
The school set out 9 barrels of *pretty disgusting* well water.
And everyone went nuts! Not a bad way to end the week. See photos.

Saturday, May 2, 2009

A little pick me up for you all...

Want to feel better about whatever rain/heat/wind/sleet/snow you're experiencing? Click HERE

Thank you, Asia!

Our lives just got exponentially better here-
there's a new restaurant in town!
And its good! And its cheap! Unheard of!
This is coming as our standard go-to decent restaurants are all raising their prices and cutting corners on quality, so we are all VERY excited!

The name of this fabulous institution?
Overseas Finefood Restaurant
.
Chinese-Malaysian. Curries. Fried noodles. Tofu. YUM!
Main dishes are only 10-12 SDG- that's like five bucks! Actually affordable!

Most restaurants in this town are $12-15 a plate, for not very good food. Sometimes you pay it- just to go out- to have something to do!

Did I mention its one of FEW restaurants in this town to offer any kind of painted walls and nice tables? They are definitely going the distance. We're just crossing our fingers it lasts!

If I had a hammer...

I haven't really had my camera out and about. Things aren't so new and exciting after 9 months here...
This is Emily and a friend, breaking booze bottles on the roof of our apartment building. Destroying evidence? Partly. Recycling to use for mosaic garden stepping stones? Absolutely!

Tuesday, April 28, 2009

Just a test


You can all see the fun we have in my advisory class. I just borrowed this really, super cool flip camcorder from our technology department, and this was one student's attempt to show me how to use it. If this works, boy- get ready for some VI-DE-Os!
If it doesn't work, well... then I don't know. Sorry. It was really dumb anyways.

Sunday, April 26, 2009

Mosaics in progress

A photo of the coolest mosaic so far- a map of Africa. It will have a peace sign running through it. Totally cool! Nice work, Majid! Love it!

Saturday, April 25, 2009

no joke

Have I mentioned we're averaging between 115 and 120 degrees?

Earth Day 2009

Em has done some pretty awesome work putting together this community garden. On the 22nd, the school celebrated the garden (and the Earth) with an assembly. It was really cool to see high school kids playing guitar, accompanying the elementary chorus, An Eco-fashion show, poetry readings in different languages. We also dedicated our peace pole. What an inspiring morning! Emily did a great job putting it together.

It's like a garage sale...

We went to another food sale this morning- more embassy people that are leaving town and have extra consumables. As each embassy person gets to ship 2000 lbs of consumables from the States, this often means lots of food left over once their time is up.
(Poor American School vultures enter stage left.)
Pork Sausage! Pace Salsa! Rice Pilaf! Pepperoni! Dr. Pepper! Cheddar Cheese!
It's a holiday over here...

Tuesday, April 21, 2009

quote of the day

talking to a sixth grader, she tells me...
"It's just a little crush- for a simpleton like me."

Monday, April 20, 2009

It's the end of the year as we know it...

Really, there isn't much excitement here. Except that I have my tickets home! Five weeks from today I'll be on that plane, putting me in Kansas on Tuesday, May 26! Only 4 1/2 more weeks of teaching!

We have a lot to pack into these last few weeks- school is definitely busy.
Emily and I are co-teaching seventh grade language arts. Emily is putting on her high school play.
My classes are making mosaics and creating cookbooks and doing all kinds of exciting things. We will have a pool party and spirit week and a water fight. Boy how time will fly!

Sunday, April 19, 2009

We know now.

We got filled in this morning. It seems the 'cultural event' was actually a product launch. DAL group is now making ground sorghum flour. And that's worthy of the largest fireworks display in Khartoum history! Hmmm.

Apparently, most Sudanese use sorghum flour in daily cooking, but until now, they have had to buy it at the market, and then go to the next stall to have someone grind it. Not any more!
This is big!

Saturday, April 18, 2009

We still don't know what it was, exactly...

Our boss had a few free tickets for a big cultural event this weekend, and we were quick to jump for them. Though we still, even after the fact, aren't sure what the event was. It seemed to be a free 'celebration of Sudanese culture' for the masses, sponsored by the biggest corporation here- DAL group. We drove our car- our first driving adventure across the bridge and into neighboring Omdurman. It was the most organized event we've seen so far. While it was all GA, they seemed to almost have a system for admitting people! Novel.

We kind of walked right past security and found ourselves in the VIP seats. Oops! That might have something to do with the color of our skin. Nobody asked any questions.

There was a set program- A dance routine by 300 dancers in full costume, local music, laser light show with dj, followed by more local singers.
Odd. Perhaps the oddest being the laser lights and dj, and a stadium full of people sitting in silent observation. It was like a club. With nobody dancing. It was truly bizarre.

All in all, a very quality evening- even if we're still a bit confused.
And a great way to enjoy the 'five week celebration'! Only five weeks left!