We asked a colleague to take us to the National Museum. She has a PhD in African Studies and has lived here in Khartoum for 20 years- and knows all there is to know about the archaeological work done here. The perfect guide!
The museum could be impressive. It's a large building with potentially beautiful grounds, located right on the Nile.
To start with, we were shocked that it only costs 1 SDG to get in- although we gave her 10 SDG for the 6 of us, and didn't get change. She then claimed it was 1.50. Uh... That math
still doesn't add up, ma'am. Not worth the battle. Less than 5 dollars for all six of us to spend the morning at the museum? Yup. YOU keep the change.
It soon became very clear that they needed that money more than we did! (Did I mention this is the largest museum in the country?)
They have brought several temples piece by piece from Northern Sudan. Very impressive, as she could explain the difference in carving between the earlier Egyptian dynasties and then the later 'Sudanese'. The most exciting was a temple originally built by Queen Hatsepshut- including one of the few remaining drawings of her! (See photo- she's to my right- topless, as most queens are?).
Sadly, the museum lacks any serious financial support. Any fancy signage has been donated by the archaological society here in Sudan. But their donations and efforts are heavily restricted and limited.
Christine, our 'guide' also pointed out the various ways that the carvings and temples and statues and paintings are being affected by fungus and salt, with nothing being done to stop it. Pretty sad to see, as there are some pretty amazing things worth preserving in this little 'national' museum!
Below you can see the 'main hall'. There are 36 air conditioners rimming the ceiling. Zero of them work. Christine, in all of her visits, has
never seen them on. I suppose hot, dry air isn't bad for preservation. But that seems to be the only measures they take.
They also have a hall of Christian mosaics from 1000- 1300s, when Sudan was Christian. Surprisingly beautiful. Interestingly, these all depicted Jesus as white-skinned while bishops and disciples and others are dark-skinned. In Ethiopia- not so far away- Jesus was always painted as having dark skin. Hmmm....
We all agreed that it was a great tour to take so close to our departure. We're ending on a high note, appreciative of the historical and cultural importance of this place and the people. Just what we will need to remember this summer, as we struggle to pack to return!
